Dresden, Krakow, Budapest

Okay - so I’ve fallen extremely behind in my blogging. Since I left Prague just over two weeks ago (Sept 27), I’ve been to five cities. In the interest of quickly catching up, I’m going to have to summarize my visit to each. If I try and get too detailed, I won’t be caught up ‘til Christmas. Here goes:

Dresden, Germany

My friend's travel plan was to head to Dresden on her way back to Frankfurt where she would catch her flight home. I was planning on going on to Poland after Prague, but decided to check Dresden out. Kari is an expert at setting up the ride-sharing thing, so it was a stress-free - and cheap - ride back to Germany.

Dresden was nice, but very rainy. We had encountered rain and overcast skies since Prague, and it continued here. The city was nice despite that. It has largely been rebuilt since it was infamously fire-bombed by the Allies during World War II. We visited the impressive re-built Frauenkirche cathedral, which had been completely destroyed. Dresden also has some funky pubs and live music spots. In particular, we found a great place for live music called the Blue Note. Jazz, blues, and a little bit of alt-country as well. I neglected to try currywurst when I was in Berlin, but was sure to try it here. Currywurst is essentially wieners cut into smaller pieces and seasoned with curry sauce. I know, it doesn't sound like much - but I like it.

Mmm...currywurst.

Drinking with the locals (that being the guy in the middle - Marcus)

After Kari left, I stayed one more night to sort out my travel plans to Krakow. That extra night consisted of hanging out at the hostel with a few other travelers (mostly Aussies, of course), having a few drinks, and making them endure my serenading them with the hostel's free-to-use guitar. (Actually, I think everyone had fun - thanks to Daniel and Saffron for being a great audience). The next day, yet more ride-sharing, this time to...

Krakow, Poland

I used the ride-sharing service to get to Krakow,  catching a ride with a Ukrainian guy on his way back to Kiev for a few days. This ride-sharing experience wasn't as, umm, comfortable as the first two, but it WAS interesting. I had to meet the guy, Maxim, on the outskirts of Dresden, just off the Autobahn. He didn’t live in Dresden, but was passing through. Getting to the appointed spot was an adventure in itself (got off at the wrong tram spot, ended walking the wrong way, could find no one who spoke English, etc.) Thankfully, Maxim had told me that the gas station we were meeting at was near the Ikea (Swedish for “everywhere”) - That was helpful when encountering people who could not speak English when asking for directions: I would just say “Ikea?” and gesture as if to say “Do you know where the hell it is?" I ended up finding the station, meeting up with a Ukrainian girl who was also sharing the ride. Maxim ended up being late and then pulling up in a good sized car. Excellent, I thought. But wait, there is no room in his back seat - it’s taken up with spare tires wrapped in plastic. Surely he’ll put those in his trunk I thought to myself as he got out of his car. Maxim then opens his trunk. His far - very far - from empty trunk. How the hell are we gonna get a single piece of luggage in that trunk, let alone two pieces AND make room for another passenger in the back seat? I pictured myself staying in Dresden yet another night. "Is there going to be room?" I ask. "Don't worry, eet weel be fine" he replies, as he somehow starts defying laws of physics and spatiality in re-arranging the car. I look over at Oksana, my Ukrainian fellow-passenger. She rolls her eyes and says "Ees teepical Ukrainian answer". Well, it all worked out. A bit cramped, but not so bad. It was only five-hour drive (!). See below:

My home for a five hour drive - and yes, safety advocates, I was able to use the seatbelt.

See, I fit. Had to hold onto that red suitcase around corners, though.

I only spent two days and nights in Krakow. I spent one day walking around the main square, the Wawel Castel and the Kazimierz (Jewish Quarter). And I had the best borscht and dumplings ever at a restaurant just off the main square. Again, the weather was not cooperating. Very cold, even for Krakow at this time of year, I was told. In fact, I ended up buying a toque (although no one over here calls it that). My second day was a day trip to the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp, an hour or so bus ride outside Krakow. The size of Birkenau cannot be comprehended - its larger than I could imagine. The tour guide who led us through the two camps was excellent: knowledgeable, and striking the appropriate tone in giving such a tour, which can't be easy. It's very somber walking around such a place where there was so much appalling suffering and death. I don't know what else to say, so I'll leave it at that.

That same night, I took my first overnight train. With my condolences to Slovakia, which I blew threw in the dark and didn't see, I arrived the next morning at 8:00am in...


Budapest, Hungary

I had plans in Budapest to meet up with two American friends, Kate and Melissa, who I had met in Berlin. We realized our schedules would have us in Budapest around the same time. As well, they sold me on the hostel they were booked into (The Mandala Hostel), as it apparently had yoga classes AND a guitar. Sounds like my kinda place. Except...it did not have yoga classes as advertised. They were down the street and extra. And the guitar...well...it had five rusted strings. The sixth string no longer existed. Sigh. I still played it a little, though - any old port in a storm, you know.

Not to continue complaining about the weather, but the first couple of days in Budapest were rainy and grey and cold. That made it about ten straight days of such weather. It started to dawn on me that we were into fall, and that sun and warmth were not as probable as they had been a month earlier. So, the first couple of days consisted of me fighting a bad cold, complaining about the weather, and being kinda grumpy. Thanks to Kate and Melissa for putting up with me. Happily, on day three, the sun came out - and revealed Budapest in all its glory. People rave about Prague, but I think Budapest compares favourably. Very similar to Prague - amazing architecture - but not as touristy. And Budapest has a more laid-back feel. Highlights included walking around the Heroes Square at night and attending the opera at the stunning Budapest Opera House. My first opera in fact - Norma, by Bellini. I enjoyed it, though I had to read the program at intermission to figure out what was going on - the subtitles displayed on a screen above the stage were in Hungarian only. A synopsis: A tale of forbidden love, resulting in the lovers throwing themselves into a fire at the end. Typical. Only cost around $20. A friend of mine went last minute and got her ticket, in the same box as me, for $3. See - planning ahead doesn't pay. (So, my first soccer game ever is in Liverpool, first opera is in Budapest - not bad places to have those firsts.)

Budapest Opera House

Heroes Square - Budapest

Okay, so it looks like I lied on two counts in the early part of this post - I said I'd stick to summarizing, but it appears I'm incapable of that. Also, I said I'd tell you about my visit to five cities - I've only done three. After Budapest, I went south to the small city of Pecs, Hungary. I was there a couple of days, then was off to Zagreb, Croatia. Perhaps I'll talk more about those brief visits in my next post.