Monday, January 24, 2011

Kerala

Since my last blog entry, I spent a further two and a half weeks in Northern India: Agra, Varanasi, Bodh Gaya and Calcutta. I then caught a flight to Kochi, in the southern Indian state of Kerala located on the country’s western coast. Perhaps I will add a blog entry at a later date regarding those final two weeks in the north - but knowing my lack of consistency in blogging…well, no guarantees. :)

The south has been a welcome change from the north. Don’t get me wrong, I loved (most of) my experiences up north. I will go back some day. I was told that the south is more laid-back, perhaps due to its warm climate. It has certainly not disappointed.

I flew into Kochi from Calcutta. I instantly noticed the warmer temperatures when I got off the plane. I spent about five days in Fort Cochin, which is an old colonial area right on the water (I guess, technically, much - if not all - of India is an “old colonial area”, but what I meant is that the style of architecture gives it a colonial feel). Colonial architecture, tree-lined streets, no random cows, nor the accompanying not-so-random cow poo, and only a minimal number of burning piles of garbage: Kerala truly was different from the other parts of India I had visited.

After Kochi, myself and my Scottish friend Kevin caught a bus to Alleppey, where we spent a couple of nights and where we did a backwater canoe daytrip. The Kerala Backwaters are a popular attraction for visitors. Many people do overnight houseboat tours, but the price was a little steep for us. The canoe trip we opted for, while only for the day, took us to some of the backwater channels that the houseboats could not access.

We had a guide who paddled our canoe for us while, at first anyway, the two of us just sat back and enjoyed the ride. But just as Kevin and I both shared our guilt at having an old man do the paddling for two younger guys, our man motioned for Kevin to grab a spare paddle at the front. So, Kevin and I took turns paddling throughout the day, happy (believe it or not) for some exercise.  Every so often, locals would come by in a boat, or nearby on shore and they would share a laugh with our guy in their language. I’m convinced they were laughing at how he got the white guys to do some of the work. Also included in the backwater trip was breakfast and lunch at the guide’s house in one of the backwater villages. The meals were cooked and served by his ever-smiling wife. No utensils for this meal: hands only. Our guide and his wife would both stand over us and watch us as we ate, which was a little bizarre at first, but it seems they just wanted to make sure we had enough food. They were intent on stuffing us, I’m sure. One of our other stops included a riverside bar of sorts where we drank some coconut beer. One of the more surreal moments: canoeing by a riverside church which had a Backstreet Boys song blaring out of its loudspeakers. (Note: I did not identify the song. It was Kevin who was able to name the tune, to his everlasting shame. Sorry Kev.)

After Alleppey, we caught a train down the coast to Varkala, which is a touristy beach town. Yeah, I know it’s not the “real” India, but I’m loving it here. I’ve been here for about ten days and am enjoying beach life, the sunshine and +30 degree temperatures and doing a whole lot of nothing. I’m off to Mumbai in a few days, which will be my last stop in India before I fly off to Thailand.

  
Our guide

















The Backwaters
Enjoying coconut beer
Our backwaters ride

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