Touristy. Overpriced. Only foreigners. Not the real India.
Yes, all of the above statements could be used to describe the beach town of Varkala. But I do not care. It’s January. I’m Canadian. And my body, normally accustomed to trying to stay warm in this climatically accursed month, is wondering what the hell is going on with the +30 degree weather and blazing sunshine EVERY DAY FOR NEARLY TWO WEEKS. Oh…and don’t forget about the beach and the bath-water warm ocean water and awesome waves - maybe not quite surfable (not that I surf - yet), but good enough for body surfing and boogie-boarding.
Overpriced? Well, yes, but only by standards elsewhere in India. The room of my guesthouse - cold-water shower (in this weather, not an issue), mosquito net (yes, it’s needed) and no frills - is 600 rupees/night, the equivalent of about $13. I’ve gotten accommodation for well less than half that amount elsewhere in my India travels. The food at the numerous restaurants and cafes overlooking the ocean - killer sunsets every night, by the way - is pricey (again, relative to elsewhere in India) and often unremarkable. But still, I do not care.
My days have consisted of waking late and going for breakfast. Then heading to the beach. Reading, either at the beach or at a café. (Normally one who reads at a glacial pace, I’ve blown through two books since I’ve been here). Surfing the internet at wifi cafes overlooking the ocean. Playing cards with fellow travelers. Basically, a whole lot of sweet nothing.
Varkala has a laid back feel. It’s not the big party spot that Goa is reputed to be. There are a few cool places here to go for drinks. (Sadly, like all of India so far, the only beer available is the putrid Kingfisher. But any old port in a storm.) I don’t think I would enjoy Goa any more than I’ve enjoyed my time here, so I’ve decided to give it a pass, extend my stay here and then head straight to Mumbai.
Do I have any bad things to say about Varkala? Well, there are these guys who walk around selling these goddamn bongo drums. Playing them while trying to sell them. Let’s just say that many a serene moment, drinking coffee or having a beer while staring at the sea, has been marred by these drum-playing annoyances. For the last time, no, I do not want to buy a drum. And no, that it is "best quality" doesn't matter. No, it doesn't matter how low a price you give me. Now please stop playing it while standing right in front of me…
Other than that, I’ve enjoyed this place. Back to the “real” India tomorrow. Sad to leave Varkala, but looking forward to Mumbai.
Yes, all of the above statements could be used to describe the beach town of Varkala. But I do not care. It’s January. I’m Canadian. And my body, normally accustomed to trying to stay warm in this climatically accursed month, is wondering what the hell is going on with the +30 degree weather and blazing sunshine EVERY DAY FOR NEARLY TWO WEEKS. Oh…and don’t forget about the beach and the bath-water warm ocean water and awesome waves - maybe not quite surfable (not that I surf - yet), but good enough for body surfing and boogie-boarding.
Overpriced? Well, yes, but only by standards elsewhere in India. The room of my guesthouse - cold-water shower (in this weather, not an issue), mosquito net (yes, it’s needed) and no frills - is 600 rupees/night, the equivalent of about $13. I’ve gotten accommodation for well less than half that amount elsewhere in my India travels. The food at the numerous restaurants and cafes overlooking the ocean - killer sunsets every night, by the way - is pricey (again, relative to elsewhere in India) and often unremarkable. But still, I do not care.
My days have consisted of waking late and going for breakfast. Then heading to the beach. Reading, either at the beach or at a café. (Normally one who reads at a glacial pace, I’ve blown through two books since I’ve been here). Surfing the internet at wifi cafes overlooking the ocean. Playing cards with fellow travelers. Basically, a whole lot of sweet nothing.
Varkala has a laid back feel. It’s not the big party spot that Goa is reputed to be. There are a few cool places here to go for drinks. (Sadly, like all of India so far, the only beer available is the putrid Kingfisher. But any old port in a storm.) I don’t think I would enjoy Goa any more than I’ve enjoyed my time here, so I’ve decided to give it a pass, extend my stay here and then head straight to Mumbai.
Do I have any bad things to say about Varkala? Well, there are these guys who walk around selling these goddamn bongo drums. Playing them while trying to sell them. Let’s just say that many a serene moment, drinking coffee or having a beer while staring at the sea, has been marred by these drum-playing annoyances. For the last time, no, I do not want to buy a drum. And no, that it is "best quality" doesn't matter. No, it doesn't matter how low a price you give me. Now please stop playing it while standing right in front of me…
Other than that, I’ve enjoyed this place. Back to the “real” India tomorrow. Sad to leave Varkala, but looking forward to Mumbai.
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| Vistas like this... |
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| ...and beaches like this... |
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| ...equals this. One happy, relaxed traveler. |
Andrew, do not feel bad about enjoying touristy beaches in India. Calgarians are experiencing -30 degree weather here and would gladly trade you for even a minute of your experience. Hope you're now in Thailand and loving that beautiful country. LR
ReplyDeleteSo beautiful, I didn't expect to see beaches without holy cows....
ReplyDeleteReally happy to hear that you enjoyed ur stay in Varkala.I am a native of Kerala.
ReplyDelete